Can we make Sustainable Fashion work?: Great Job

Why has it come about?

As global warming and human rights have become enormous issues within our society, it has driven people to look for the problems and to find solutions.

The fashion industry plays a heavy part on the damaging impact on the environment, and although some people are aware of the negative impact; many people are unaware of the severe consequences the fashion industry has on the planet, if we left it the way things are.

Not only do textiles affect the environment throughout the production of the fabrics, but after all the consumption phase, the disposal of the wanted textiles have such a considerable effect on the environment.

The main impacts the fashion industry has on the environment are:

- Energy

- Toxic Chemicals

- Production of solid waste

The use of energy involves burning fossil fuels to create electricity to heat water and air for use in processing textile fibers, as well as production of synthetic fibers.

The use of toxic chemicals harms human health, effecting the workers, in a negative way at their everyday job. Toxic chemicals are used in the growth of cotton, and in the chemical preparation in dyeing and printing.
These toxic chemicals are the further released into the water, harming life.

The fashion industry is constantly in high demand of ‘fast fashion’ and ‘high fashion’, leading to the production of solid waste. The disposal of garments and textile at the end of their life is having a huge impact on the environment.
There are issues with the time the clothes take to biodegrade, and the amount of clothes being produced, as they are building up as waste.
There are high demands within factories and developing public awareness of fashion that is responsibly made.

Why should we get involved with sustainable fashion?

“Yesterdays fashion are tomorrows toxins, around the world an estimated 1 million tons of textiles end up in landfills each year. Clothing can take decades to decompose, all the while leaching deadly chemicals and harmful gases.” (B. Quinn 2008)

If we don’t stand up for our planet and get involved in making a difference, we won’t have a planet to leave for the future. The impact sustainable fashion has on the environment is positive and a great step towards less impact on global warming.
Sustainable fashion involves recycling clothes and fabrics, dyeing naturally with vegetables, herbs and spices, and growing organically made crops.

By following these small new trends in the fashion industry, we are extending the lifespan of our planet, and providing a future for our children.

Swedish fashion designer Johanna Hofring has played a significant role in sustainable fashion, introducing green clothing in Sweden and opening eco-garments through New York.

“When I found out what goes on in the clothing production cycle, I started to move away from it. Live animals are subject to chemical baths to soften their wool and clean it.
When their fibers are spun and woven into fabric, textile mills vent pollution into the air and pump poisons into the water table. The textiles get sent to third world sweatshops where workers endure human rights violations.
To make matters worse the short lived trend cycle driving the fashion industry makes sure that most garments end up in waste bins a season or 2 later, some without even having been worn at all” (Johanna Hofring 2008).

What difference is there from recycling waste products and environmentally friendly transport, which is a main part of the society’s everyday life, and producing/wearing recycled or environmentally friendly clothes?

Who is responsible for setting new directions towards a sustainable fashion industry?

“We don’t live in a sustainable world, but those of us who buy eco-friendly instead of mass produced lines are making a statement about what we believe is important, just like the colours and styles we wear express a certain part about ourselves.
Is buying organic and fair trade clothing enough?
No, money can’t buy change alone, but consumer demand is an important factor in helping to change all levels of the fashion market.” – (Victoria Everman)

Who is responsible for setting new directions towards sustainable fashion?
Both designers and the consumers need to participate to support each other and support the fashion industry.

It is the designer’s job to produce the sustainable fashion in an ethical way, and to meet the consumers’ demands, and the consumers need to get involved with the changes in fashion and purchase the clothing.

Money is a starting point to making it successful, the money allows the clothes to be designed and produced and then the ideas need to be advertised and worn out on the streets.

“Fashion activist Kate Pears reports that Australians spend approximately $1.7 billion each year on clothing and accessories we don’t wear, or wear a few times and dismiss. So what can students do?” (University of NSW, 2008)

To make sustainable fashion significant and successful the society needs to support it. The largest target in fashion design is the youth, the students, as they are the future.
Kate Pears encourages students to get involved with sustainable thinking and teaches them easy steps to raise awareness.
Some examples are students setting up their own clothing exchange on the campus, and setting school assignments exploring the recycling of material.

It is important to consider the entire process of new designs and inventions, from cradle to grave.
To think about the total life spand of the garment. Not just trends of the season, but how can the garment be re-used after that period.

Can we make sustainable fashion work?

Yes sustainable fashion can work, however realizing that it won’t be easy to initiate.
The society needs to be aware of the link between the fashion industry and the environment.
We need to communicate the problem through media, as they have strong power in voicing out problems.

Designers have already shown interest in their concern for the environment, realizing that they are all playing a large part in global warming.
The consumers however play such a significant role in the success of the fashion industry.
They have to want the fashion, to purchase the clothing, to bring the money into the business.

It is a real challenge for the designers is making clothing at a price that can compete with mainstream labels.

One of the main hurdles in making sustainable fashion successful is many people associate environmentally friendly clothes with unbleached, undyed and shapeless items which are unsalable.
These attitudes are creating a barrier between the designers and the consumers. The other mindset in which the consumers are glued is the issue of following the general trend.

If designers launch their products as normal, and not necessarily perceived to be environment friendly, it will attend to a much larger target group.
Take Nike for an example, Nike has introduced 50-100% use of organic cotton, replacing the conventional cotton. This has not played a negative impact on their sales and in fact they have not changed their styles or target groups.

Another point that needs to be tackled is – are the consumers willing to pay more if it can save the planet?

Sustainable fashion designer Caroline Priebe answers this question straight on.
“With my collection I want consumers to realize their dollar has political power. I want consumers to disregard trend and not buy what they are told to wear, but rather what works for them and makes them feel good.
I want consumers to make conscious purchases that build a unique aesthetic identity. I want consumers to consume less and invest more, invest in their look, their uniform, the pieces that will sustain them.” (Caroline Priebe 2008.)

To make sustainable fashion work we as a whole society need to work together to improve the way we live, so that the planet can live on too.

Designers influenced by a sustainable lifestyle

- Caroline Priebe

- Anne Salvatore Epstein

- Skin and Threads

Caroline Priebe is a new York fashion designer who has launched a sustainable label ‘Uluru’. She focused on dramatic silhouettes, detailed stitching and using eco-friendly textiles. These include alpaca knits, organic cotton and hemp silk.

Caroline was influenced by both her mother and grandmother to look at the bigger picture, and learn to have less impact on the environment.
Her main mentors were Lynda Grose, a sustainable fashion designer, activist and professor, and Natalie Chanin, a very successful sustainable fashion business owner.
And which to Caroline’s great pleasure, they all work together to maintain and grow ‘Uluru’.

Caroline and her team have three main goals, to challenge, push and innovate their designs. Firstly their clothing, they believe to design beautiful, smart, functional, timeless and yet low impact garments. Secondly they are to create and maintain a successful sustainable business.

This means they must create a system where everyone from farmer to consumer wins, and minimal impact on the environment.

And lastly to create a culture, where garments potentially last a lifetime, instead of thrown out after the end of that trend and season. To be successful this was done through both the design and fabrication.

Caroline’s new goals are to continue to reduce consumption, as both as a designer and individual she has decided to purchase only vintage clothing and recycle the fabric.
She plans to deconstruct and re-create her own unique style. She enjoys supporting the ideas behind recycling, but she believes it is also fueling her professional creativity.

Carolines advice is to read ‘cradle to cradle’ by William McDonough & Michael Braungart.
“Sustainable design is not a passing trend, it’s a revolution” (Caroline Priebe 2008)

Anne Salvatore Epstein is a sustainable fashion designer from Hew York. When she discovered she was pregnant her life hit a changing point.
Once she lived an overly excessive lifestyle highly influenced by the New York City glamour, but she changed to become simple., modern and organic.
After she was introduced to how the manufacturing process impacts the environment she changed the direction of her company. She launched an eco-friendly collection named Beau Soleil.

The collection was made from vegetable-dyed organic cotton, bamboo fabric, recycled leather trims, and tencel.
Anne has set strong goals for her company, as their focus on sustainability, fair trade and labor, and using organic raw materials.
She offers the consumers environmentally healthy clothing however she still isn’t sacrificing the fashion.
Anne has now has a numerous amount of stores throughout America.

There successful feminine image have been originated by draping the finest sustainable fabrics, aimed for a forward thinking woman.

Skin and Threads originated in Melbourne by two young woman. With their understanding of organic and natural fabrics, skin and threads have created clothing that both look and feel beautiful. The main design focus concentrates on clean, soft silhouettes.

The garments are designed to be worn all year around, as basics or by layering. It gives the consumers the control to design and construct their own individual look.
Skin and threads want to allow the consumers to love what they wear and yet realize what it means to wear natural fabrics and support sustainable fashion.

They encourage sustainable fashion as a small step to incorporating sustainability in their lifestyle.

Since originating in Melbourne Skin and Threads have opened up stores throughout Australia, Canada, Japan, New Zealand, UK and USA.

Annotated Bibliography

1. Gale, C and Kaur, J. 2002. The Textile Book. Berg. UK

- An extensive book which outlines and educates the reader about the textile industry as a whole.

2. McEwen, S.2004. Ecologic: Creating a Sustainable Future. Powerhouse Publishing. Sydney.

- A series of case studies which outline the damage that is being done to our planet at present. Puts forward ways to ensure the long term future of our planet.

3. Discovery Communications, ‘Plant Green’, last updated 2008, Date visited 14/08/08 http://planetgreen.discovery.com/work-connect/caroline-priebe-uluru.html

- This website explores caroline priebes sustainable fashion label. It explains what has influenced her and why she has designed her collection. Very interesting website.

4. University of NSW, ‘Sustainable Fashion’ last updated 2008, Date visited 14/08/08, http://www.sustainableliving.com.au/news/ecofashion

- Not too relevant but interesting to learn ways that students can help support sustainable fashion.

5. David T Parkes ‘The world of textiles: Sustainable fashion and ethical clothing’, last updated 2008, viewed 14/08/08 http://www.fibre2fashion.com/industry-article/13/1277/the-world-of-textiles2.asp

- Very informative about sustainable fashion and the environmental impact it has.

6. Jill.Danyelle, ‘Inhabitat’, last updated 2007, date visited 14/08/08, http://www.inhabitat.com/2007/07/22/sustainable-style-sunday-beau-soleil/

- Small information, however useful to understand the life of designer Anne Salvatore Epstein and her influences and experiences designing a sustainable fashion label.

7. Apparel Search Company, ‘Sustainable fashion definition’, last updated 2008, Date visited 22/09/08 http://www.apparelsearch.com/Definitions/Fashion/
Sustainable_Fashion_definition.htm

- Great definition of sustainable fashion. However that was the only relevant information.

8. Anne Salvatore Epstein, Beau Soleil, ‘Reduce, Recycle, Renew’, last updated 2008, visited 14/10/08 http://www.shopbeausoleil.com/about.php

- Small amount of written information. However great images of her ranges over the last few years.

9. Beklina, last updated 2008, Visited 14/10/08, http://www.beklina.com/beau_soleil.html

- Not much information. However a little summary about Anne Salvatore Epstein which was very relevant.

10. Skin and Threads, last updated 2007, visited 14/10/08, http://www.skinandthreads.com/home.htm

- Main webpage. Not much Background Information, however great images of collections